whereas Pascal describes nature as “an appalling sphere the center of which is everywhere, and the circumference nowhere,” the study of terroir holds that the center of this sphere is, in fact, a bottle of wine. Imperial Rome made this center a limit by conquering only those regions that could support vineyards—were they onto something? Terroir, from the French terre (land), is the set of local environmental factors that give rise to the signature of a given wine. This 2020 Spanish Grenacha tastes the way it does because of the regional combination of metabolic and cultural variables x, y and z. Typical variables recognized by vintners include climate, soil, landscape and cultivation. Viticulture is only now beginning to realize the vast impact that fungi and bacteria have on terroir; this points to the influence of mushroom thinking on the science of wine. Because this science is limited, an artificial limit must be drawn around the study of terroir, and yet it is clear that due to the cascading and interminable processes of any environment, terroir has no circumference. One might add to the variables that make up wine’s specificity: telluric currents, invasive species, the full moon, scotchguard, nuclear fallout, mercury-in-retrograde, volcanos, wars, pandemics, solar flares…In short, terroir is as deep as it is wide; it is everything that is the case plus x. The study of terroir is the study of a cross section of the universe. It remains to be seen how a local (or global) psychosis contributes to your wine’s bouquet.